Love the shape-shifting magic of contouring? Now reveal your clients’ #nofilter best with Caramel Contour, an incredible feat of sculpting and highlighting from blonder extraordinaire, Zoë Carpenter. By using warm, delicious tones of NEW LumiShine DD Crème Color (placed and processed in all the right places), Zoë shows you how to pull off all-angle facial perfection, enhance your client’s complexion, and create the illusion of thicker, more lustrous hair—all in a single color service!
PROBLEM: Client’s grown out brassy balayage is showing her roots, and this haircolor isn’t doing her fine hair any favors.
SOLUTION: Soft strokes of filtered light interlaced with rich caramel shadows deliver illuminating balance, while creating the illusion of thicker, more lustrous hair that smolders with complexion-loving warmth and glimmers like spun sugar.
YOUR EQUATION FOR PERFECT CONTOURING: LumiShine DD Crème Color in NG and NWB = Rich, saturated, healthy-looking, lasting “shadows” that establish visual balance and lustrous dimension.
LumiShine Demi-Permanent Creme Color
Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener with 5 Volume (1.5%) LumiShine Developer
FORMULA 2:
1 oz (30 ml) LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz (30 ml) LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz (60 ml) 5 Volume (1.5%) LumiShine Developer
FORMULA 3:
1½ oz (45 ml) LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz (15 ml) LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz (60 ml ) 5 Volume (1.5%) LumiShine Developer
GLOSS FORMULA
2 oz (60 ml) LumiShine Demi-Liquid 10NG + ½ oz (15 ml) LumiShine Demi-Liquid 10NC + 2½ oz (75 ml) 5 Volume (1.5%) LumiShine Developer
Technique
STEP 1: SECTIONING
Begin with the hair parted down the center all the way to the nape.
STEP 2: SECTIONING
Part hair into four sections: two from center of ear forward and two behind.
STEP 3: HIGHLIGHT
Apply Formula 1 in a “V” painting method to a diagonal forward vertical slice section just behind the ear.
STEP 4: CONTOURING
Apply Formula 2 to the inside of the “V” to add depth and dimension. Be sure to blend the lines out and not create a severe line with the lowlight formula.
STEP 5:
Repeat process for 3-4 slice partings until you reach just above the ear, working in diagonal vertical partings with Formulas one and two.
TIP: For easier application on long hair, use Joico Artistry Foils. These large, 7 x 14 (18 x 35 cm) foils make adding dimension to long hair and applying multiple formulas a breeze.
STEP 6: CONTOURING
Apply Formula 2 to the inside of the “V” to add depth and dimension. Be sure to blend the lines out and not create a severe line with the lowlight formula.
STEP 7: ADDING DEPTH
Continue working upward in the same section. In the red foils, apply lowlight (Formula 2) from scalp to ends. To create more texture and dimension, leave some ends out on your lowlights.
STEP 8:
Using your creative eye, determine where to apply light with Formula 1 (in foils) to balance your design, blurring the line of demarcation on a grown out balayage.
STEP 9:
Keeping working upward in various diagonal partings, alternating between Formulas 1 and 2. These varying diagonal partings will ensure your color is well blended as well as erase any prior lines of demarcation. Continue taking micro slices until back sections are complete.
STEP 10: FRONT HIGHLIGHTING:Next, working in the front, take a fine diagonal forward slice parting and apply Formula 1 to the pieces that frame the face; these are called “skin lights.”
STEP 11: CONTOURING
When applying contouring lowlights (shadows) to sections behind the face frame, apply Formula 3 from scalp to ends.
TIP: Remember to flick the ends out of some foil to create sombré pieces.
STEP 12:
Continue working in the front section with Formulas 1 and 3 adding depth and light to contour the shape. Keep your partings angular with fine slices.
STEP 13:
Repeat on the opposite side.
Foiling
Process hair for 35 minutes, then shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy.™ Towel-dry the hair with two towels by squeezing, not shaking, the hair for perfect towel dried hair. Apply Gloss Formula from scalp to ends with a bottle applicator, then process for 15 minutes. Shampoo and condition with K-PAK Color Therapy. For an added boost of shine, treat hair to K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock Instant Shine & Repair Treatment or Multi-Perfector Protect & Shine Spray.
